Allegra Magazine - The City of Light

Rekindling My Love Affair With Paris

I decided to fly from New York City to Charles de Gaulle, a route with several nonstop options and a good price. From Terminal 2, I decided that the best option to travel to central Paris was by taking the RER B train to Gare du Nord – there are plenty of machines in Terminal 2E/F to purchase the Navigo card (2 Euros), then the fare for the train to Gare du Nord, which is 14 Euros. There are also several apps for purchasing tickets.

I also purchased the Navigo card for Metro/bus use – this is separate from the airport one, although the cards look the same, so it’s wise to have a pen so that you can write which is which on the cards.

The RER B to Gare du Nord takes around 35 minutes, but it can get crowded, so be prepared to stand. At Gare du Nord, I then took the Metro to my destination in Paris. I had to catch two different Metro trains, but as I had loaded the Bonjour RATP app on my phone, navigating the Metro was very easy, even for a first-time user.

Settling into Le Marais

I had decided to stay on the edge of the vibrant Le Marais neighborhood, which is part of the 3rd and 4th Arrondissements, a great place to be; it is easy to walk to many wonderful parts of Paris, the district has an incredible blend of boutiques, art galleries, nightlife, cafés, bistros and brasseries, there are several Metro stations and it is reasonably cheap.

After settling into my hotel room, it was time to head out for a walk to the Seine. Through the wonderful, historic streets of Le Marais I wandered, not caring how long it took, not even bothering where I was going, as long as it was in the direction of the river. Passing wonderful-looking bistros, gazing into the windows of art galleries and boulangeries, fully immersing myself in the wonderful, energy-filled atmosphere, I was in heaven; I was falling in love with this magnificent city all over again.

some of the huge variety of saucissons available during La Fête des Vendanges

First Night Along the Seine

Eventually, I walked onto Quai de l’Hôtel-de-Ville from Rue des Archives and caught my first glimpse of the Seine, lit up by a million reflections of nighttime Paris. After walking along the Quai for a while, I descended the cobblestone ramp from Pont Louis-Phillipe to Voie Georges Pompidou, a delightful pathway directly next to the river. Gazing at many huge public works of art on display, much of its photography, watching the Batobus boats gliding along, moving aside for the Parisian evening joggers, coming across lovers kissing under streetlamps, this was everything I wished for; Paris was not disappointing.

Back at street level at Pont Marie, I caught my first glimpse of “La Dame de Fer,” “The Iron Lady,” the Eiffel Tower, in the distance, but sparkling and glimmering with its hourly light show, what a sight!

A Bateau Mouche cruising on the Seine at night

A First Parisian Meal

By now, after a couple of hours of walking, I was feeling hungry and decided to head back to my hotel. Navigating the streets and alleyways of Le Marais, I eventually found myself at Comptoir Turenne, an inviting-looking bistro. I sat and enjoyed my first Parisian meal at a very reasonable cost – Bifteck Haché à Cheval – a very large, chopped beef patty with a fried egg on top and some incredible, authentic pomme frites – fries to us, but thick and very tasty!

Climbing into bed that night, I fell asleep full of wonderful food and ecstatic to be experiencing Paris in all its glory, not following a tourist agenda, but determined to wander and discover.

A Birthday in Paris

I was to spend my birthday in Paris, and I was determined to make it one to remember! I started with coffee at a great little café barely 20 yards away from my hotel – one of three on a crossroads, then I headed off for a leisurely walk along Boulevard Beaumarchais, stopping to window shop at the many vintage camera stores, browsing the street stalls selling all manner of things, gazing into the tabacs, all the while walking towards Place de La Bastille.

There is no monument to the famous July 14th storming of the Bastille Prison, but there is the magnificent July Column, the 154-foot bronze monument, commemorating the revolution of 1830, impressive and commanding the skyline.

Inside a typical café, Rue Amelot, near Le Marais

Notre-Dame & the Islands of the Seine

A few snacks from the street vendors in Place de Bastille and I decided that my next stop would be Notre-Dame Cathedral. Taking a circuitous route from Bastille to Pont Sully, to Île Saint-Louis, one of the two natural islands in the Seine, I walked across the island, then across the Pont Saint-Louis to Île de la Cité and on to the cathedral, stunningly imposing, but incredibly beautiful. I hadn’t been able to get the free entrance tickets, so I opted to view this magnificent building from the outside, marveling in its beauty, history, and presence. On my way back across the river, I stopped at Amorino Gelato, a mere stone’s throw from Notre-Dame, for a mouthwateringly delicious latté and some out of this world gelato!

Heading back to my hotel through the 3rd Arrondissement, I already felt I was in familiar territory, at home and comfortable with this part of the City of Light.

Montmartre: the Spirit of Bohemian Paris

If you ask anyone their list of favorite areas to visit, Montmartre will nearly always be there: steep bohemian cobbled streets, bistros, cafés, art galleries, the Dali Museum, Place de Tertre, full of artists painting and sketching and of course, Sacre Coeur, the immense basilica at the top of the hill, with some incredible views of the city.

During my visit, I was lucky that the Fête des Vendanges was taking place – Paris’ most iconic wine festival – although I don’t drink, the myriad stalls beneath Sacre Coeur had more than enough tasty delights to keep me happy – 100s of different cheeses, regional pastries, tarts and pies, charcuterie meats, a seemingly endless variety of saucisson (sausages) and of course, plenty of wines and beers. If you find yourself in Montmartre in October, this is an absolute top-of-the-list activity.

The Glow of the Moulin Rouge

Of course, no trip to Montmartre is complete without a visit to Pigalle and its most famous resident, The Moulin Rouge. The red windmill, lighting up the night sky, doesn’t disappoint, and although I didn’t go inside to watch the world-famous cabaret, it is definitely in my plans for future visits.

Le Trein Bleu, the iconic restaurant at Gare de Lyon, decorated with over 40 paintings and murals by Belle Époch artists, was on my wish list, but getting a reservation is almost impossible unless booked weeks in advance, although it is always easy to sit in one of the bar area lounges, which is what I opted for. Do not expect anything to be cheap, for example, 26 euros for a Caesar salad, 12 Euros for a 1-liter bottle of Evian water, but the ambiance, the elegance, the décor, the service, all make up for that. This is definitely one of those genteel, civilized Paris must-visit locations.

Place des Vosges & Literary Paris

Next was Place des Vosges, the Victor Hugo Home and the Picasso Museum, all within an easy walk from my hotel. Place des Voges in autumn is sublime. The weather was wonderful and the foliage a splendid riot of beautiful yellows and golds, the fountains bubbling and sparkling in the sunlight, the red brick buildings that make up the square, the oldest planned one in Paris, are over 400 years old.

Beauty, history, peace, this is such a wonderful location to just sit and read, have a picnic, relax, do nothing and forget about everyday life for a while.

Sign outside the Victor Hugo House, Place des Voges

Immersed in the World of Picasso

‍‍There are so many attractions at Place des Vosges, but a big highlight is visiting the Maison de Victor Hugo, the apartment he rented from 1832 to 1848. Admission is free. Info: https://www.maisonsvictorhugo.paris.fr/en/paris

There are so many incredible museums in Paris but given where I was staying for the duration of my trip, the Picasso Museum was a must and just a brief 10-minute walk from Place des Vosges. Housed in a 17th-century mansion, the museum has a collection of more than 5,000 works of art, including paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics, prints, engravings and notebooks, spread across four floors. A truly captivating and dare I say, inspiring, almost reverent experience. A bonus for me after viewing so much of Picasso’s work and insights into his life and genius was the incredible rooftop café overlooking the courtyard, where I enjoyed a sandwich and espresso. Info: https://www.museepicassoparis.fr/en/home-page

Picasso’s “The Crucifixion” at the Picasso Musuem

Seeing Paris with the Heart

Of course, I took time to visit the Eiffel Tower at night, to photograph “tourist” scenes, but my intention was to view Paris from my heart, to try to blend in with Parisians, not to stand out, I think I managed that in some way, but my main goal was to rekindle the love affair that had begun so many years before and that I definitely achieved.

This journey of Parisian discovery has only just begun; there are so many more streets and alleyways to explore, galleries and museums to visit, bridges to cross, bistros to eat, and life to live in the City of Lights.

Eiffel Tower, River Seine from Pont de Bir-Hakeim

Useful Prices to Know

Getting around Paris is refreshingly straightforward once you know what things cost and where to go. From hopping on the Metro to riding the RER in from the airport, a little price awareness helps you move through the city with confidence — and maybe save a few euros along the way.

This quick guide gathers everyday transport fares, essential visitor stops like Musée Picasso, Maison de Victor Hugo, and Notre-Dame Cathedral, plus the easiest ways to navigate the network run by RATP. Whether you’re arriving through Charles de Gaulle Airport, heading into Gare du Nord, or downloading the official transit app from the Google Play Store or Apple App Store, these are the useful prices to keep at your fingertips.